Bidar, the other jewel of the Deccan Sultanate
This post is also available in: French
With Bijapur, Bidar is on of the ex-capitals of the glorious Deccan Sultanates era are linked. As we really enjoyed the first, we visisted the second one with the same formula: a small team loving to discover heritage sites, visiting without a hurry (they remain cities one can visit in a single day) and a open-mind on the limited local hotels and restaurants scene in this kind of mid-sized cities of deep India.
In Bidar, concerning heritage sites, the real star is the fort. And it deserves this status. On the edge of the city, its double or even triple walls have protected it from the ennemies and even from the Indian modern hectic development. So after having passed the zig-zag way (anti elephants charge!) leading to the majestic main gate, you’ll find yourself in a kind of sanctuary where calme and green are taking over. Then, the visit is quite original. As just a few tourists (even Indians) are coming in this remote city of Karnataka, monuments aren’t really opened to visit… but not completely closed neither. No tickets, no guides but some “security guards” and firm grids instead (to protect the monuments). But finally, if you show some interest, local guards are opening up the gates and even guiding you through the monuments and the backchich isn’t even mandatory (even if well appreciated obviously).
Beyond the fort, we also found next to the city or in its “memoral park” delicate mausoleums, tombs and even some nice remains of a big madrasa, still partially covered by blue mosaic. We’ll notice too the nice Ali Bareed tomb, opened on 4 sides with elegant archs and with the particularity of being surrounded by the tombs of… its 61 wives!
As in Bijapur, we spent a suprising night in one of the only restaurants serving alcohol with all the usual ingredients of this kind of places: low light, sticky tables, empty bottles, men patrons only and even some private tables closed by curtains. Not your usual pub…